Ahh, what a glorious night at anchor! The river’s current may have been swift, but our trusty anchor held firm, keeping us steady and secure. Not a single crab pot snagged our swinging keel—proof that we had chosen our spot wisely. This anchorage wasn’t just a scenic masterpiece of remote beauty; it was also a tactical decision, setting us up to navigate Hell Gate with the grace of the morning high tide.

Wait, Hell Gate? Have we made it all the way to New York’s East River already? Not quite! Georgia’s infamous Hell Gate shares the name but has its own challenges. Unlike New York’s swirling currents, this Hell Gate is known for extreme shallows. At low tide, our keel would have kissed the bottom—definitely not the kind of adventure we had in mind. The spring tide swings here are incredible, with minus 1.5’ lows and soaring highs of 8’. Timing was everything, so a passage yesterday afternoon was out of the question. Instead, we picked this anchorage just an hour away, set our alarms for the crack of dawn, and prepped for a 6:30am departure.

The early rise was worth it. At high tide, Hell Gate greeted us with plenty of water beneath the keel, letting us relax a little and enjoy the breathtaking marshes of Georgia as the river meandered its way north. But this wasn’t the only tricky spot on our journey. Near Hilton Head, an absurdly narrow and shallow area awaited us, forcing us to time our passage perfectly. At regular speed, we’d hit the minus low tide and run aground—so we had to slow down.

But slowing down proved easier said than done. The current was in our favor, pushing us along relentlessly. Even with the engine idling, we were cruising at 3 knots, wind at our backs. We joked about dragging an anchor behind us just to slow down! Fortunately, the scenery made the ride enjoyable, drifting past islands where weekend warriors docked their boats for a BBQ festival. The tantalizing aroma of grilled hot dogs and burgers filled the air, teasing our appetites as we navigated onward.

Soon, Hilton Head came into view, and with it, a flood of memories and emotions. I couldn’t help but think back to a family vacation here so many years ago. I vividly remember Bettina and me crossing the big bridge to Hilton Head Island on a bike tour. We stopped midway on the bridge, standing side by side, gazing down at the water below. I turned to Bettina and said, “This is the Intracoastal Waterway. Maybe one day, if we’re lucky, we’ll be sailing on this water, cruising along the East Coast on our own sailboat.”

And now, here we were!That very same bridge was coming into sight—only this time, we weren’t pedaling over it on bicycles. We were gliding toward it on our sailboat, living the dream I had once spoken of all those years ago. A dream come true.

As we approached the marina, the next adventure awaited us: a small, narrow lock that would lift us into the marina basin. It would be our very first lock experience—something new to navigate and master. Our nerves were on edge, especially with a ripping crosscurrent and 18 knots of wind on the beam. Four boats waited ahead of us, all held back by the tide. We circled the river for an hour, watching others attempt the lock and learning from their struggles. When it was finally our turn, we took a deep breath, steadied our hands, and… nailed it! Into the lock, through it, and into the marina without a hitch. Relief washed over us as we topped off diesel, got a pump-out, and settled into our slip.

Just as we settled in and tied off, a small thunderstorm rolled through, bringing a brief spell of rain. It only lasted about half an hour, and our timing felt perfect—safe, dry, and ready to watch the storm from the comfort of our cockpit.

Now for the next phase—planning ahead. The realization hit that we’d likely have to motor most of the way through “The Ditch” up to Norfolk. The inlets along this stretch of coast require an overnight sail to reach safely. Since we’re not ready for overnight passages yet, we’re limited to day trips—and the spacing of safe inlets makes it impossible to hop outside for now. While disappointing, we will make the most of it. First stop: reserving a slip near Charleston. With two nights secured, we’re hoping to explore the city by Uber and soak in its charm. Lets hope this works out!