Today was one of those magical days I’d been dreaming about since I first began mapping out our adventure back in December—an unforgettable leg that would lead us into the untamed wilderness of Everglades National Park. It wasn’t just the destination that had my heart racing; it was the journey itself. The thought of sailing 11–12 nautical miles (~22 km) offshore and out of sight of land filled me with an exhilaration I couldn’t quite put into words.

As the golden hues of dawn painted the sky, we raised anchor and set off early to make the most of this longer leg. The Gulf of Mexico greeted us with exactly what we’d hoped for—a steady breeze, almost perfect on our beam, swinging between close reach and beam reach. That was all the encouragement we needed to hoist our sails and revel in the joy of moving quietly, engine off, propelled by nothing but the wind.

With land disappearing behind us, the vastness of the Gulf reminded us to prioritize safety. We rigged our jacklines and pulled out the life vest tethers—a wise move as we ventured so far from shore. The moment cell service faded, our Starlink dish took over, keeping us connected despite the isolation. Of course, the passage wasn’t without challenges. We spent much of the sail dodging countless crab pots and even narrowly avoided running over two “playful” turtles who seemed to be having the time of their lives.

By late afternoon, the Everglades began to emerge on the horizon, bathed in soft, warm light. We approached our anchorage just as the sun dipped low, casting long shadows that added to the mystical atmosphere. And what an anchorage it was—utterly untouched, utterly serene. No boats, no buildings, no roads, no urban buzz—only the raw, wild symphony of the jungle. It felt like stepping into another world.

Anchoring proved a bit unusual. As we dropped the hook, we heard and felt it bouncing along the peculiar bottom before it finally caught. Confident it was secure, we tested it thoroughly, revving up to 2500 RPMs and ensuring it set firmly. Bettina’s excitement soared when she spotted what may have been an alligator—or perhaps a crocodile. The Everglades is famously the only place where you can find both species, making it a wildlife haven like no other. We soaked in the tranquil stillness, the jungle sounds, the sheer remoteness. The world felt so wonderfully far away.

Nightfall brought its own rituals—we draped our specially purchased no-see-ums netting over the hatches and cockpit, set up our electric mosquito repellent, and hoped for the best. To our surprise, it worked—no mosquitoes disturbed our sleep, although the cockpit bore witness to their demise in the morning, littered with lifeless insects.

But the night had one big surprise for us. At around 2am, the anchor alarm blared, jolting us awake. Outside, the pitch-black, total darkness was suffocating—you couldn’t even see your hand in front of your face. We could hear the unsettling sound of the anchor bumping across the bottom. The current had swung 180 degrees, and apparently our anchor had failed to reset on this weird bottom. It was unnerving, but we acted quickly. With the engine roaring to life and thanks to our electronic navigation system (and their backup systems), we oriented ourselves in the pitch darkness and navigated Koko back to safety.

The bottom here, we’ve learned, has a reputation—it’s a tricky blend of mud, sand, and shells. Anchors can set perfectly, but a current shift can undo even the best placement. We were lucky to have the alarm wake us in time, and even luckier to keep calm and figure our way out. Close call, as the current pushed us right into the shallow shore.